This summer, I headed to Sicily in August, a 10-day road trip between Taormina, Syracuse, Cefalù, Agrigento and Palermo.
A few things to know about Sicily before you go:
- The distances between cities are quite long, so I advise you to choose 2/3 different accommodations across the island to avoid spending 2 hours on the roads.
- Parking is regulated and there are many restricted traffic zones in city centres, so you need to look up and be careful when driving. To pay for parking, you can go to tobacconists, where you can buy scratch-card style parking tickets to indicate your day/time of parking. Fines are also paid at tobacconists.
Taormina
My favorite part of Sicily is undoubtedly the city of Taorminawhich, in my opinion, combines all the Italian charm. I advise you to lose yourself in its small pedestrian streets to soak up the Sweet Life. Known as the filming location of the series The White Lotuswhich I really enjoyed, I was looking forward to discovering it. We didn’t have time to visit the Greco-Roman theater in the city of Taormina (entrance fee), but it’s a place to see. From the city center, stop on the Piazza IX Aprile and its viewpoint over the bay. Etna is located right next to the town of Taormina, so you can see it on many occasions. The Communal Villaa park overlooking the bay of Taormina, is a (free) place to visit for a lovely relaxing walk surrounded by nature.
Beautiful Island
Isola Bella is accessible from Taormina when the sandbar is accessible from the beach. If you decide to walk down from the heights of Taormina, the journey is only made up of stairs, but it is worth it, just for the view! The spot is quite popular so it is recommended to go quite early if you want to spend a few hours there. Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore is home to an ornate Baroque villa & extensive pleasure gardens.
Where to go out & where to eat in Taormina?
- Osteria Da Ritaa favorite in Taormina, a typical Sicilian osteria, very very popular in the evening for dinner knowing that reservations are not possible, if you want to dine there I advise you to go there very early at opening. We chose the lunch option, for lack of being able to dine there and we loved it! Special mention for the pasta alla norma.
- The Locanda Dei Morimy second favorite food in Taormina, the place is very cute, very typical & accessible, and located in a very quiet alley.
- Maikano Coffeefor a typical Sicilian breakfast in the city center: Affogato, Canoli, Almond Granite
- Bam Barthe emblematic address to taste a Sicilian Granite, the places on the terrace are expensive, you will have to wait a few minutes if you want to sit down there.
- Daiquiria rather fancy bar where you can have a drink
- Taverna Don Ninoa small bar that doesn’t look like much, but with spritzes for €4.50 and local dishes
- The Napoletanaa pizzeria with a lovely, quiet terrace, set back from the main street of Taormina, and local wine.
- Riccobono’s Kitchento eat linguine alle vongole and drink Etna wine.
- Strit Fud & Rosticceria Da Cristinato eat an arancini on the go.
Syracuse & Ortigia
Located approximately 1:30 from Taormina, the town of Syracusea UNESCO World Heritage Site, is inevitably a place to visit in Sicily. Lose yourself in the city ofOrtigiaits historic center where you can discover the Aretusa Fountaina fountain with a natural spring flowing through it, which represents the legend of the Greek nymph Arethusa. For lunch, we stopped at Just Veggiea very typical little vegetarian restaurant.
Near Syracuse, there is the beach Pillirina Spaggia (about 15min by car), a beach only frequented by locals, very calm and quiet.
Cefalu
Another of my favorites in Sicily: the city of Cefalù and its seafront. I would have liked to spend more time there but unfortunately our itinerary did not allow it. Its small authentic alleys and its sunset over the Tyrrhenian Sea make it a place full of Italian charm.
Agrigento & the Valley of the Temples
Located approximately 2 hours drive from Palermo, Agrigento Or Agrigentoa city in southern Sicily, is mainly known for its Valley of the Templesan archaeological site listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site: an emblematic place to visit during a trip to Sicily.
We parked in the lower car park and then took a taxi (3€) to take us to the top, to the entrance of the archaeological site. It takes about 1:30/2:00 to visit all the remains of the temples.
The Valley of the Temples includes the remains of Greek temples such as the Temple of Zeus, the Temple of Concord, the Temple of Heracles, the Temple of Athena…12 temples in total, built during the time of ancient Greece, from the 6th century to the 2nd century BC.
The Turkish Scala
After your visit to the Valley of the Temples, I recommend you go through the Scala dei Turchilocated about 20 minutes by car from the archaeological site: a rather impressive white limestone cliff accessible via Lido Rossello. You will have to walk about 30 minutes from the beach to reach the site.
Trapani & the Egadi Islands
The city of Trapani is located 1:30 from Palermo.
This is where you can take the boat to the Egadi Islands. We chose to visit the island of Levanzothe closest, the smallest and the most authentic. The island is easily visited on foot, it is not possible to come by car, I advise you to stay there for the day, to have time to combine visit + beach. It is also possible to visit a cave on site, but you have to book in advance. As for restaurants, there are only two on the island, which are very popular at lunchtime and not incredible.
On the way back from Levanzo we visited the centre of Trapaniquite touristy, it offers many bars & restaurants. After seeing the sunset on the seafront, we had a drink at theWine cellar Versi di Rossoa wine bar, and we had dinner at Santa Chiara 19 before our return to Palermo.
Palermo
Capital of Sicily, Palermo is the city where we spent the most days knowing that our flight was cancelled on the day of return. We were therefore able to visit the city in 4 days. Visit of the cathedral of Palermo & its crypt, of some of its many churches (Chiesa di Santa Caterina, Chiesa del Gesu), there Piazza Pretoriaand of course, getting lost in the city and passing through its many open-air markets. The city is quite dirty, like some Italian cities, but it is definitely a city I could return to because I had a good feeling about it.
Where to eat & go out in Palermo?
- Curtigghiurestaurant located on a main street in Palermo, but very good!
- Bisso Bistrotypical Sicilian restaurant
- From Baccorestaurant in a small pedestrian street, another good Sicilian address
- Enomisthe best parmigiana I ate during my stay!
- Capo Marketa local produce market where it is also possible to have a quick lunch in a food court style. Several stands where you can decide to have lunch on site or to take away.
- The Vucciria : very touristy and busy place in the center of Palermo, you can have a drink among locals and tourists. There is a great atmosphere, if you want to come and dance & have a good time with friends, this is where it happens! There are also many restaurants at lunch & dinner, before it goes into “evening” mode.
- Ruvolo Quattrocanti : eat an ice cream on the spot or on the go at Ruvulo Quattrocanti, in the heart of the city
- Cannoli&Co : to taste a famous Cannoli at Cannoli&Co, a cannoli bar
- Botanico, Crrasti Bar, Castigamatti
Botanico, a small, more intimate bar, in a hidden alley, far from the hustle and bustle of the Vucciria. On the same street, the Crasti Bar and a little further up, the Castigamatti Bar on Piazza Aragona. My three favorite bars in Palermo, much less touristy and mostly frequented by locals, with good music and a good atmosphere.
What to do around Palermo?
- Visit the village of Santa Flavia and Sant’Elia, where it is possible to swim. It is very cute and quite quiet!
- Swimming in the surroundings of Palermo at the Capo Gallo reserve. The entrance is paid because it is a nature reserve, you can park right next to it once the entrance fee is paid.
