Meeting with Charlotte de Fayet, head of Molli

In addition to the birth kits that made Molli so successful, the century-old brand, Charlotte de Fayet, a self-taught knitter, has since developed a complete and sophisticated wardrobe for women, all in cotton and pure new wool. A tour de force that has earned him today the opportunity to dress the most prominent women of the moment with a style that is recognizable among all.

Paris, Left Bank. A stone’s throw from the Invalides and the Rodin Museum, in a lively street in the 7th arrondissement, a pleasant paved and tree-lined courtyard is revealed behind a heavy blue door, which would almost make us forget the deafening snoring of the capital in these first days of summer. A few steps to climb, two more doors to push, here we are behind the scenes of the emblematic Molli knitwear house.

At first glance, the offices reflect the image of the Swiss brand created almost 150 years ago. No sign on the street side to announce this confidential location known only to insiders. A family home spirit that exudes elegance and comfort. A decor with refined details and a timeless style. An intimate space where the rooms in a row can be discovered one after the other, until opening onto a terrace protected from view. In the vast showroom where we sit down to carry out our interview, the Molli silhouettes from the spring-summer 2025 season are lined up on Stockman racks and mannequins, ready to be revealed to buyers from the Benelux, the United States and Canada. , from Japan, Korea or China, which will follow one another here in a few days.

New chapter

At the head of Molli, Charlotte de Fayet has been working for ten years to restore all its colors to the century-old house and to chart a new destiny for it. An attachment to the brand that goes back a long way for the entrepreneur, mother of three children, who already saw, as a child, the precious Molli knit birth trousseau being passed down within her family. As an adult, she in turn offers it to the young parents around her, before receiving this great classic birth gift for her children. It was also when she opened the door to one of the brand’s boutiques to exchange a set she had received for her younger brother that Charlotte learned by chance that the House was for sale. The one who cut her teeth at Danone, then within the L’Oréal group, then took on the crazy challenge of waking up the sleeping beauty and bought Molli in 2015.

Inspired by the knitted silhouettes of Chanel, Rykiel, Patou or Lacoste, Charlotte de Fayet decides to make ready-to-wear feminine her new playground, convinced of great modernity and the infinite creativity of the Molli knit.

Closely linked to the history of fashion, the Swiss brand created in 1886 was originally known for its ultra-fine breathable and anti-bacterial mesh underwear, responding to the concerns of the hygienist turn of the late 19th century. Knitted underwear made the company successful until the popularization of acrylic in the 1930s, which competed with the model. Drawing on its know-how born from lingerie, Molli then specialized in toddler wardrobes, and the moss stitch birth trousseau quickly became a classic throughout the world.

However, when Charlotte de Fayet took over Molli more than half a century later, the brand was no longer as attractive. The new children’s fashion players have been imposing less classic and more impertinent fashion for several years now. Inspired by the knit silhouettes of Chanel, Rykiel, Patou and Lacoste, the new owner decided to make women’s ready-to-wear her new playground, convinced of the great modernity and infinite creativity of Molli knitwear. . A choice which, tested over the past decade, has proven to be a winning one.

Discreet luxury

For Molli to become the benchmark brand in its niche, Charlotte de Fayet is banking on a demanding triptych: the finest quality, the most flattering cuts and the prettiest colors. An ambition that begins with the choice of yarn used. The cotton, from organic cultivation, comes from Egypt, and the pure ultrafine virgin wool, certified 100% mulesing free, arrives from Australia and New Zealand. Then they are processed in Italy by the most renowned spinners. This is also where the Maison’s partner manufacturing workshops are located. “ What makes me love working with Italians – at least the workshops with which we collaborate – is that, when we ask them to make a piece, they will first think about choosing the best quality possible. , before thinking about cost optimization. For me, that’s luxury. » Beyond haute couture knitting, which the brand can pride itself on, Molli stands out for its ability to invent new knitting points. In the design studio located in the heart of the Parisian offices, Charlotte and Astrid, Molli’s knitwear stylist since the start of the adventure, imagine new movements in the fiber, such as astonishing zellige knits or openwork cannage. A creativity that is expressed as much in these innovative knitting techniques as through a palette of remarkable colors, another strong signature of the House. The shades are revealed throughout the seasons in monochrome sets or with original patterns, like the polychrome terrazzo knit, whose pattern drawn by the threads is inspired by Murano glass.

“The Molli woman is looking a locker room. She needs to be able to put on an outfit in the morning without having to think and knows that she has a turnkey silhouette. »

“Few items but endless combinations”

Flowing pants, light skirts with unique knits, knitted blouses with ruffled collars and tops with sleeve effects, the sophisticated purity of Molli silhouettes accompanies women in all aspects of their daily life. “ The woman who comes to Molli is looking for a changing room, Charlotte de Fayet explains to us. She needs to be able to put on an outfit in the morning without having to think. Of course, it is an investment, but she knows that she has a turnkey look, that she can wear her skirt with a t-shirt, and that the top can be worn with jeans . » These women’s wardrobe essentials are suitable for daytime as well as evening, changing tone depending on whether they interact with a pair of sneakers or heels, a wicker basket or a vermilion mouth.

“ These are the perfect pieces when you don’t really know how to dress. Neither too much nor not enough, explains their creator. Besides, when I pack my suitcase for a professional trip or other, I always take the same four pieces because I know that, whatever the circumstances, I will be able to make them more chic or less chic. » One constant remains, the look and comfort they provide. Another asset that appeals to customers: an aesthetic different from what we see everywhere, but recognizable at first glance to experienced eyes. To remain desirable, each new collection offers these precious ranges around a limited number of models. “ A bit like a good restaurant which offers a reduced menu, but where everything is done well, with love, between the recipes that we love, which are always there and which are unanimously appreciated, and the little new ones », explains the business manager, also a picky eater.

At Molli, there is not one infinite references, but everything mixes with everything.

Every six months, the discovery of the season’s new products is like a little get-together for those in the know. The latest creations mix easily with older pieces, all created according to the same guideline, with the same inspiration. “ One day, an American client came to see the offices and she had words that I loved, remembers Charlotte de Fayet. “Few items but endless combinations”. This is exactly what Molli is about! There is not an infinity of references, but everything mixes with everything. » Beyond the style and shapes, the colors connect the different collections with a breadcrumb trail: the same navy blue, orange or black are used each season. This allows an aesthetic conversation between shades and volumes which give the pieces an appreciated durability of style and use.

With three Parisian boutiques, present at Bon Marché Rive Gauche and in around thirty points of sale across Europe, North America and Asia, it is in the offices invested three years ago by the fifteen collaborators who beat the heart of Molli. On the walls, advertising photos with graceful models, portraits of friends of the brand dressed from head to toe in Molli, vintage photos and inspired moodboards recall the subtle aesthetic of a brand with a remarkable destiny. Perhaps because unlike a business to run, Charlotte takes care of Molli as she would a fourth child. By helping him grow, while respecting his personality and identity. •

This article can be read in MilK 85

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